Sunday Feb 5th- Amman, Jordan

 Following a buffet breakfast at the hotel we met up with the rest of our group - about 30 in total as we boarded a bus for our days activities. 

 The first hour or so was spent driving through Amman, with our tour guide pointing out various sights throughout the city, government buildings, historic mosques, market areas etc. He gave us an overall history of the city, barely 3000 in population in the early days of the 20th century, growing to the current population of more than 4 million. Like many US cities it has become a massive sprawl of concrete spreading over several hills and covering several square miles. Much of the earlier construction is bordering on slum like with low rise buildings spread over various hills, the only access being stairways with several hundred steps, no elevators, no roads or easy access for emergency vehicles etc.

Jordan is an earthquake zone which seems to get a “big one” every 90-100 years so the next one is probably not that far off as the last was in the 1930’s.

Leaving the city we travelled for about 30km to the town of Jaresh. There we spent about 3 hours exploring the ancient city of Jaresh. Occupied by various different tribes since the Bronze Ages, it was first taken over by the Greeks and later the Romans, who occupied it from about 90BC till around 400 AD. When it was taken over in the Byzantine era.

The city was ultimately destroyed in around 700 AD by a massive earthquake. 

The existing ruins are spread over a couple of square miles and are estimated to be about 20-25% uncovered, the remainder being buried under the existing modern city. Featuring mostly modern restorations, it is one of the larger and most impressive ancient cities we have seen on our various travels. An impressive Hadrian’s Arch welcomes visitors onto a lengthy roadway into the heart of the town where a partially reconstructed hippodrome ( Chariot track and ceremonial combat area) is apparently still used for events once the tourist season kicks in.

 A couple of Roman theatres, a Temple to Artemis and one to Zeus are mostly columns with little left of the main structures. The former featured the only original columns still standing- the rest having collapsed during various conflicts and earthquakes. Featuring a lead plate between the base and the actual column these structures can be physically moved with a strong push - which can be felt by “gingerly” sliding one’s fingers into the crack at the base to feel the alternating pressure and release when the column is pushed. Our guide suggested “just one finger, just in case- you really don’t put need all four”

Our final stop was along a lengthy wide roadway, featuring ancient market stall settings and uneven roadways with ruts caused by chariot wheels.

 After a quick lunch we continued to our next stop, the town of Ajloun, where the Ajloun castle is located on a rocky prominence high above the modern town,

Built by Saladin in the 12 century, it served to protect the major trade route of the time, between Damascus in Syria and southern Jordan. While the current castle is in partial ruin, it was never attacked or damaged in conflict. From the top views as far as the Sea of Galilea and the Golan Heights can be seen on very clear days. 

As expected, our guide had a very different view of the Crusaders compared to the movie version- nothing but savage killers looking to expand their wealth and killing hundreds of thousands in bloodbaths that did not  differentiate between the races they killed- Christians, Jews and Muslims all being fair game. - describing Jerusalem in one battle as “ streets flowing with rivers of blood as deep as the knees of their horses”

The return trip to Amman took about an hour, much of it through almost gridlocked traffic once we reached the central city.

Following a buffet supper we walked around an adjacent mall and supermarket, checking out the local fare  as well as the massive quantities of imported chocolate brands. Jordanians in general have a sweet tooth and consume vast quantities of confectionary. Prices for dates, olives, and olive oil were amazingly cheap compared to Canada- a third the price. And the ultimate sticker shock-  gas stoves and other major appliances were the equivalent of $700-$1200, the same appliances in Canada would be $2800- $4500.

 Tomorrow we are checking out of our hotel and off on the road, seeing another castle and a couple of other sights before arriving in Petra where we will spend two nights.

Monday footnote

 My comments about overdue earthquakes could not have been more prophetic, as one struck Turkey and Northern Syria around 4am that night. Amman being some 400km away only a slight tremor was felt.