Three nights in Ortigia (Siracusa)

              Currently no photos due to internet issues at our B&B

The train ride between Catania Centrale and Syracuse took around 75 minutes for the 70km trip, largely due to scheduled stops along the way. The route meandered along the coast for part of the trip passing industrial plants and some Esso facilities which seemed to be in the business of making rotten eggs.

 The station in Syracuse was a good km from our destination but the 15€ price for a 5 minute cab ride was enough of a deterrent that we decided to hoof it. 

A fairly straight route led us over the pedestrian bridge into Ortigia, the small island off Siracusa and it was another 500 meters before we found our B&B.

Casa VerbaVolant was on the main tourist drag through the town and the owner was waiting at the door when we arrived. It turns out he and his wife own a publishing company so the entire building is like a museum to publishing. Ancient typewriters in every room and various print media on the walls, a lampshade made from a book and an entire library in multiple languages was at our disposal. 

Our apartment contained a full size fridge, induction top, microwave, dishes etc. so we did cook most of our own meals. After 3 weeks of nothing but restaurant food it was a pleasant break.

1 km in length and about 600 meters at its widest point Ortigia is home to a dwindling population that survives mostly on tourism, with some fishing. There seems to be a restaurant or bar every 30 feet and they do not appear to be short of business. The highlight of the island is the Piazza Duomo with its magnificent Cathedral of the Nativity of Mary with it’s highly detailed facade and carved figures. Almost a brilliant white it seems to glow, regardless of the day, sunny, cloudy, overcast. 

Various cafes line the surrounding plaza offering everything from small snacks and spritzers to sumptuous meals. 

 Entering Ortigia from the main bridge one comes across the rather shapeless ruins of the Temple of Apollo.. Variously a church, a temple a mosque and a market it remains as a site of one or two acres of broken stone surrounded by a fence and cafes on one side, and vendor stalls on the other 

Leading further into the island one encounters the Piazza Archimedes, dedicated to the island’s native son and famed mathematician. Centred in the Piazza is a statue of the Goddess Diana surrounded by a fountain featuring various wild creatures.

 Wednesday afternoon we walked most of the island’s periphery, viewing the closed for the day castle at the island’s south tip before returning along the west side in time to catch a brief sunset. 

With several choice restaurants closed on Wednesdays we hit the local coop and with some pasta, pork chops and veggies in hand we fixed our own meal, 

Ditto breakfast the next day, ham and cheese baguette, boiled egg, coffee etc.

 Thursday morning we hit the local market for mussels, shrimp, tomatoes, basil, garlic and a dry white wine, turning out steamed mussels in white wine, boiled shrimp and our leftover pasta from the night before.

Prior to cooking lunch we did burn off some calories with a 3.8km return trip to the Church of Saint Lucia in Syracuse. Famous for a large Caravaggio painting behind the alter as well as a large catacomb with we were unable to visit as the place was closing shortly for lunch- I guess even the dead need some down time!

Returning home it took little time for me to clean and prep the seafood while Susanna organized laundry- the owners offered us the use of their common room so we could revitalize our fairly beaten up and somewhat crusty travel ensemble. ( 4 weeks on the road with 4 tops, 4 pants etc. leaves one stretched fairly thin.) Very rarely does one find a place with free laundry facilities. 

As 5 pm approached we wandered the parts of the island we had missed, deciding that potential swimming spots looked a bit rough for such rank amateurs. 

Sunset tonight was a bit of a washout with thick cloud on the horizon but I did capture some interesting moon shots later in the evening. 

Our last full day in Ortigia was spent rather lazily with a visit to the adjacent Duomo- a lot less rushed than our last visit due to time limits for our tour.

Then a walk along the east coast of the island for a look at the local “beach” and a tour of the Papyrus Museum with its displays of the ancient “paper” art.

Dinner was, as usual, seafood- grilled tuna steak encrusted in almonds at a restaurant recommended by our  B&B owners.